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From Niche to Necessity: Seizing the Scalp Care Opportunity

Published November 12, 2024
Published November 12, 2024
Philip Kingsley

The beauty industry’s recent move towards scalp care coincided with an increasing recognition of scalp health as integral to achieving healthy hair and a move beyond surface-level solutions in favor of treatments that address the root causes of hair problems. This is creating a surge in the sector. According to Coherent Market Insights, the scalp care market is projected to reach up to $20.79 billion by 2030, with a CAGR of 7.1%, during the forecasted period (2023-2030). As beauty giants and indie brands alike jump into the category through investments and funding, the growing demand for clinically tested products and solutions that focus on scalp microbiome health, sebum regulation, personalized care, and clinical testings has positioned the scalp care market as one of the most lucrative and rapidly expanding sectors in beauty.

Consumers have also increasingly made requests and searches in regard to scalp care. According to data retrieved from Spate, Scalp treatment is on the decline on search, with 358,000 average monthly searches and -4.0% Year-over-year (YoY) decline, although it is seeing high growth on TikTok with 20.3 million average weekly views and +107.2% YoY growth. “Scalp Health” is also receiving an average of 3,000 monthly searches and +17.0% YoY growth, while on TikTok, it receives 3.3 million average weekly views and +20.6% YoY growth.

The Science Behind Scalp Care

Scalp health is rooted in the science of dermatology, making it an increasingly clinical category. The scalp shares many characteristics with facial skin, including oil production, susceptibility to dryness, and vulnerability to environmental aggressors. “One of the primary scientific advancements fueling the scalp care boom is the growing understanding of the scalp microbiome,” Dr. Jeffrey Rapaport, dermatologist and Medical Advisor at Revivv Haircare, says to BeautyMatter. “Similar to the skin microbiome, the scalp microbiome consists of a diverse array of bacteria and fungi that help maintain a healthy environment for hair growth, and this has the potential to make or mar the health of the scalp.” This has given rise to the growth of many microbiome-focused beauty brands. According to Grand View Research, the global microbiome skincare industry is expected to reach a revenue of $835.2 million by 2030, with a CAGR of 10.9% (from 2024 to 2030).

Brands like Revivv Haircare have taken advantage of this trend, by incorporating microbiome-friendly ingredients in their formulations, like probiotics and prebiotics, which help balance the scalp’s ecosystem. Additionally, there is increased interest in scalp exfoliants that remove dead skin cells and unclog hair follicles. Although controversial as they could stress the scalp when used improperly, scalp massagers have been a go-to staple for many beauty consumers. Also, clinical ingredients like salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione are now mainstays in many scalp treatments, offering anti-inflammatory and antidandruff benefits.

As demand for science-backed products rises, beauty brands are focusing on clinical validation to support their claims. For example, popular brands like Head & Shoulders, a global leader in the antidandruff space, has long relied on clinical trials to demonstrate the efficacy of its products, particularly those containing zinc pyrithione, which reduces scalp irritation by targeting the yeast responsible for dandruff. Similarly, premium brands like Briogeo have invested heavily in clinical testing to prove their scalp-focused products’ efficacy, particularly in areas like hydration and sebum regulation. For brands, investing in scientific research has become a necessity to meet consumer expectations for transparency and effectiveness. This demand for clinically backed solutions also tends to create a high barrier to entry for newer or less funded brands.

“The thing about this global push for scalp health has not only driven consumer demand. It has also increased the need for clinical validation.”
By Dr. Jeffrey Rapaport, dermatologist + Medical Advisor, Revivv Haircare

Scalp Care’s Cultural Origins: Paying Homage to Pioneers

While scalp care may seem like a modern trend, its historical relevance in cultural traditions, particularly within Black and South Asian communities, runs deep. This is because most of these hair types are naturally bulky and textured, and therefore require certain practices to maintain their health. “Due to the tight curls of 4-C [and other textured] hair, the scalp’s natural oils struggle to move down the hair shaft, often leading to dryness, itchiness, and irritation. This can result in scalp inflammation, which, if left untreated, can contribute to hair thinning or even loss,” Dr. Ross Kopelman, hair transplant surgeon at Kopelman Hair Restoration, says to BeautyMatter. “The asymmetry of the follicle and the structure of the cuticle layers contribute to the overall curl pattern. The curlier the hair, the more pronounced the asymmetry, which makes 4C hair more susceptible to dryness because natural scalp oils struggle to travel down the hair shaft,” he continues.

For centuries, women from these communities have practiced scalp care rituals using natural oils, herbs, and massages. Coconut oil, castor oil, and amla oil have long been staples in Black and South Asian haircare, not only for promoting hair growth, but also for treating common scalp issues like dryness and inflammation. These oils are now featured prominently in modern scalp treatments from niche beauty brands, underscoring the role that cultural practices and sometimes, ethnicity, have played in shaping today’s booming scalp care market.

Black-owned brands in particular, like Bread Beauty Supply, Pattern Beauty, Adwoa Beauty, and many others, are leading the charge in this space. They have made scalp care an essential part of their product offerings, using biotin-infused oils and herbal blends to address issues like scalp dryness and hair thinning. These brands are increasingly acknowledging the origins of these practices, paying tribute to their cultural significance while incorporating them into modern formulations. This has led to more inclusive marketing strategies where the traditional uses of oils and herbs are acknowledged rather than appropriated, as has often been the case in the past.

There is also now a higher awareness of why and how these oils should be used and their impacts on fine and textured hair. “Although there have not been studies done to compare oil secretions on the scalp on different ethnicities or between different hair textures, [what we have noticed at the Philip Kingsley clinic] is that an overly oily scalp tends to be more common in fine, straight Caucasian hair,” Anabel Kingsley, trichologist at Philip Kingsley, tells BeautyMatter. “This could also be due to the fact that textured hair is easily weighed down by oils,” she says.“Certain oils or active ingredients like shea butter might be too heavy for finer hair types but work wonderfully for coarser textures like 4C hair,” Dr. Kopelman enjoins. “Consumers therefore need to be seeking products that hydrate, maintain pH balance, and effectively reduce buildup without being overly harsh are essential.” Products like the Flaky Scalp Shampoo from Philip Kingsley, for example, contain key ingredients like the piroctone olamine, an effective antidandruff active that specifically targets the yeasts responsible for dandruff, flaking, and itching.

Clinical Testing: The Key to Scalp Care’s Business Success

“The thing about this global push for scalp health has not only driven consumer demand. It has also increased the need for clinical validation,” Dr. Rapaport says. “Scalp care products—particularly those promising therapeutic benefits against redness, swelling, and itching—need to undergo rigorous clinical testing to prove their efficacy,” he continues, pointing that it is particularly evident in the premium segment of the market where consumers are willing to pay a premium for scientifically backed solutions.

A key example of clinical validation comes from Nioxin, a scalp-focused brand owned by Procter & Gamble. Nioxin’s products, designed to combat thinning hair by targeting scalp health, are backed by multiple clinical trials that have demonstrated the efficacy of their formulations in promoting hair density and reducing scalp irritation. Among many others, Procter & Gamble’s increased R&D investment in scalp care over the past years highlights the importance of clinical backing, particularly as consumer skepticism about beauty claims have grown in the wake of the clean beauty movement.

However, there’s an ongoing controversy with one of its acquisitions. In 2023, the company acquired Mielle Organics, a scalp and haircare brand targeted towards Black consumers and other textured hair women. They have been under fire by some users of the products who claim ingredients like rosemary and peppermint oils have caused hair loss, severe damage, and breakage. Trichologist Kingsley puts things in perspective. “Rosemary oil in particular has no real evidence that it works, although there’s no harm in using it,” she says, pointing to a 2015 clinical study carried out on 50 men, only—no women. “Female pattern hair loss is very different from male pattern hair loss, and they are one of the two most common types of hair loss. The telogen effluvium, which is excessive daily shedding, is the second and most common than male and female pattern hair losses. It happens due to things like nutritional deficiencies, high stress levels, surgeries, post-partum, and other internal factors. It also often resolves on its own within two to three months. So, when people have telogen effluvium which is often mistaken for pattern hair loss, they panic, use products containing rosemary oil, begin to see hair growth after two to three months, and attribute it to rosemary oil, when it was really the hair repairing itself naturally,” she continues.

As brands invest more in clinical testing, they’re also responding to the growing textured hair customer base which is currently worth $10 billion with a CAGR of 5%. Haircare brands are also looking to further understand this consumer base and their hair types. “The tight curls in 4C hair are primarily due to the shape of the hair follicle. In 4C hair, the follicles tend to be more elliptical rather than round, which causes the hair strand to coil tightly as it grows,” says Dr. Kopelman. With growth driven by clinical innovation, cultural inclusivity, and rising consumer awareness of the importance of scalp health, the scalp care market is poised for even greater heights. As scalp care moves from niche to necessity, its future will be shaped by innovation, inclusivity, and clinical credibility. With major beauty conglomerates and indie brands alike vying for dominance, the category is poised to become one of the most important—and profitable—frontiers in beauty’s next chapter.

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